If you are learning to use a serger or overlock machine, you may be a bit overwhelmed. Looking for help?
Try Serger Basics. It's easy to read, concise and full of good tips on how to use this type of machine.
This pdf file is also great for the experienced serger user. It has clear diagrams for trouble shooting tension adjustment so your stitches come out even. For the novice, there is a clear drawing of the average serger (shown above) with each part clearly labeled. If you use a serger, or plan to, I suggest that you print this pdf article, so you have something to refer to as you get started, or come across little questions when you sew.
This pdf article is part of a wide range of sewing instructions and tips by the University of Kentucky. It's really an entire sewing textbook available at no cost online.
Bonnie Cashin's vision for Spring 1966 shows her love of texture and inventive silhouettes. This kimono inspired coat has unique angled sleeve lines, with a diagonal wrap closure that ends in an upswing hemline. All edges are bound in leather, which would have been colored to compliment her custom wool textiles. Doesn't it have an exciting look? I think it could be adapted and worn today, which is one of the amazing elements about a Cashin design.
Let's Talk About: Fashion Design
When you have fashion design ideas, one of the first skills you need to have is creating an original pattern. If you cannot take a pattern design class, it can be very frustrating to learn how to make a pattern. There are two main ways to produce a pattern. The draping method uses a professional dress form, laying fabric on it to create the desired garment style. The flat drafting method uses measurements to create a drafted pattern. Often the draft is actually a manipulation of a pre-existing pattern.
Most students begin with pattern draping. After learning to work with fabric on the 3-D form, their pattern can be traced onto paper and used for future patterns. The following information will be based on learning how to drape patterns.
Before you start: the first purchase must be a dress form. While these can be costly, they are essential for all types of design and sewing, so it is as important to own as your sewing machine. What size to buy? If you plan to create designs that might later be sold, you should consider a sample size "8" to start. This is generally considered a basic size. If you have a specific target market, get your dress form in their 'average' size and shape. If you are sewing for yourself, then that size would be best. If you are looking at an older dress form, brands such as "Modern Model" and "Wolf" are common. "PGM" is a more recent brand that is imported.
Professional dress forms will have the following:
strong, sturdy base with wheels and adjustable height pedal
collapsable shoulders (used to pull off skirts)
princess seam lines in the muslin cover
shoulder plates where the armholes should be
pin-able surface
Tools and Supplies for Pattern Draping:
Pins: long pins are best for working on a dress form
L ruler, aluminum:: 24" x 14", this is a metal ruler with a right angle
Clear ruler: this "C through" 18" long x 2" wide ruler has a grid mapped on it.
Measuring tape: plastic
Marker: many students use 'sharpie' brand markers
Pencil: a standard desk type pencil can be used
tailor's chalk: a chalk that is thin and flat for sharp lines
Shears: you will want 8" sharp fabric shears for cutting your yardage
Muslin: 100% cotton is required. A medium weight is best (don't use a thin, cheap muslin)
Twill tape: 1/4" wide tape will be used to wrap around the dress form to mark specific body areas
Tools and Supplies for transfering muslin pattern to paper:
tracing wheel or pattern wheel: sharp needle point wheel with wooden handle
awl: to punch holes in the paper
French curve: clear plastic curve to draft smooth lines around curves
hip curve: 24" long, a larger gentle curve used to draft smooth lines
pattern notcher: 1/16", used to mark pattern edges
dot paper
manila paper or other heavy paper such as 'butcher paper'
heavy scissors: for cutting paper
Tutorials for learning Pattern Draping:
Before starting a draping program, the student should have a good understanding of sewing and some experience working with patterns. Before beginning a drape, it would be a good idea to purchase the same style pattern first, then cut and sew it before learning to drape it.
A series of tutorials for 10 garment processes along with how to prepare the dress form is available online through Cornell University, HERE. Each process is shown in a step-by-step format. The entire set of tutorials equals about one or two semesters of classroom projects at the college level. A draping text is recommended as a guide. This series assumes the student is an intermediate level sewist, who has experience in sewing the garment being draped.
Videos: With so many videos available online, it's tough to select tutorials that are well planned and accurate.
Craftsy.com has a full series of pattern draping tutorials taught by Paul Gallo. They are well priced, and appear to be comprehensive enough to get a student started in the draping technique. On youtube.com this short video on draping by PandemicApparel is also a good place to start if you don't want to spend a cent before you get a 'feel' for this process:
References: You can never have too many good books. These are typical titles used in fashion draping courses:
Draping Basics, by Sally Di Marco. I recommend this first due to the great tutorial photos. She works with gingham fabric, which clearly show the grainlines while working. There is a pdf preview online: HERE
The Art of Fashion Draping, by Connie Amaden-Crawford
Draping for Apparel Design, by Helen Joseph-Armstrong
Draping for Fashion Design, by Hilde Jaffe
Shopping Resources: Most tools and supplies can be found online if you aren't located near a fashion college's student store. One popular vendor is IDS International Design Supplies, Inc., Los Angeles andstudent kits are available: HERE
I hope this helps you to get started learning pattern design. If you have any questions--just ask and I'll get back with an answer!
This original article on fashion is part 10 of a series called "Let's Talk About:"
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Today ten gowns worn by Princess Diana will go up for auction in London. These gorgeous gowns date from the late 1980's and early 1990's. They all seem to share the glamour of that era. The gown shown here is by Catherine Walker from 1991. Other important gowns, such as the off-shoulder navy velvet down that she wore to dance with John Travolta are included in this auction at Kerry Taylor Auctions.
There are more details on this auction with photos HERE It's a great collection fit for a princess!
Don't you love this vintage 1950's dress with its floral print on gray? This is a classic silhouette with a wide midriff waistband topped by a band and bow. The skirt is very full, cut from many gore panels to create nearly a full circle. There a big patch pockets as well at each side, perfect for summer picnics and events.
This dress with pattern in pdf format was posted on the Victoria and Albert Museum website in 2007 for a wonderful exhibition on couture fashion: "The Golden Age of Couture, Paris and London, 1947 - 1957". At that time the dress pattern, made from measurements taken from this dress, were made available online without charge. There is a sketch of the dress details in the instruction pdf, and we can see that it is a basic dress with a wide midriff waistline, small raglan sleeves and 5 skirt gores in front.
What really makes the dress look special is the inner construction, which is not mentioned in the instructions. A skirt like this needs very stiff interfacing. I have seen pelon sewn in as a flat lining, to make this type of skirt stand out in smooth folds. That heavy interfacing would also help to keep the midriff panel from wrinkling when seated and retain that molded look that both the waist and skirt have.
This pattern is available at the V&A website where you will also find more about the original exhibition. There is a book on the "Golden Age of Couture" too, in case you fall in love with the dresses you've seen.
